i have the same problem and the wire is broken in such spot that i can't patch it adn need to run the whole length through the door and all the way down to the circuit under the dishwasher. anyone knows how to get to where the wires connect to the circuit under the washer?
i have the same problem witht he wire broken due to flexing when door opens and closes. it is broken very close to the bottom part of the dishwasher and i don't think i can patch it without running the whole length of the wire. how to you get to the part where wires connect to the circuit underneath the dishwasher?
'Cripes – just had another issue today – this time it's the pool pump leaking, after it lost it's Prime, due to low water level. It's ALWAYS something! Honestly, I don't know how Non-DIY'ers manage; they must literally spend $Thousand's every year on stupid little things!
Your suspiction on wrong orifices was the first idea I checked... and I checked not only for a wrong label, but it wasn't the case.
The burners were way too small for the task. Simple, stupid bad design.
It was a case where the "design team" decided to keep a 4 burner design stove frame, and replace the burners with six smaller ones. I don't know if the designers just tried to save over the parts cost, or if they just tried to stuff the 6 burners in the already compact stove top area. I did not choose that stove myself, it was an impulse buy by my wife, who still keeps believing today's designers must know what they are doing (while I continue to find blatant cases of bad design!). And it looked pretty, specially when the color matched the rest of our kitchen nicely.
A good friend of mine had exactly the same experience and confirmed me that model was in fact, badly designed. He told me in his case, several installers told him that brand was giving them so much trouble, that they now simply reject installing them anymore. It is hard to understand why this happens, as one would guess there should be some kind of actual testing before fabricating. But, at least that kind of realities is keeping this blog busy, isn't it?
It's true when they say that in modern electronics, 95% of your problems are due to bad connections. That's always the first place you should look.
Our Bosch dishwasher is over 25 years old. It has failed us a half dozen times. I bought a service manual the first time it failed, traced it at the motor driven mechanical controller to be a thermal switch. After replacing it, with no effect, I did a continuity check and sure enough it was the wire broken open due to its flexing when the door was opened and closed. I replaced the wire with much more finely stranded heater cord and we were back in business. A few years later, it was the water level switch. Sure enough it was again its wire and I did a similar repair. So now every time it fails, (6 times to date) it's an automatic ring the wiring. To date, despite being run a couple of times a day, the only failures have been the wire and the plastic wheels for the trays.
It seems obvious to me that Bosch blew it using coarsely stranded wire that couldn't take the twist every time the door was opened and closed. Others would call it planned obsolescence. What do you think?
Toolmaker wrote: "Is there a web site that lists the problems that have been caused by environmentalists over reach?"
Uhhh, well, yeah, glad you asked. How about this report from a reoutable agency which identifies the cause of the runaway Toyota acceleration as tin whiskers from lead-free solder on the accelerator assembly?
tekochip wrote: "I populated mine with LED lamps. They're brighter, look better, run cooler and last forever."
Not clear that they do last forever. Early reports are that LED lamps mounted base-up in semi-enclosed fixtures (Think of the lamps on a typical ceiling fan.) fail soon due to overheating of the electronics--same failure as CFLs mounted in this way. It's believed that the failures are due to cooking the electrolytic capacitors, also the same as with CFLs.
@Keithf, My previous dishwasher was a 30 year old Kitchenaid that I purchased used for $100. The parts that failed were the timer motors, which after the third failure I could not get just the motor, they would only sell the timer for $50, which was more than I wanted to spend to repair the 30 year old dish washer. The replacement has had one recall, which was for some failure that made them catch fire. Mine never did, though. Now that membrane keypad is attempting to unstick itself from the panel, which is a pain indeed. I had priced one of those to repair somebody's dishwasher a year ago and that keypad is about $85, a huge price for what it is. For much less money I can purchase good pusbutton switches, and build a good panel that will last at least 20 years. And it will have a good tactile feel.
I had exactly the same problem with an LG washing machine. Except that the board was partly encased in a silicone gunk so you could not remove it and resolder it. So I spent $180 on a new board, only to discover 2 weeks later that there was a recall for just that problem. I did manage to get my $180 refunded.
ROHS aside, wave soldering on boards with relays, lugs, terminal blocks etc should be banned. Anything with mechanical movement needs a good meaty solder joint which machines cannot do. If I has a dollar for every power connector I have resoldered I'd be...well richer than I am now.
What should be the perception of a product’s real-world performance with regard to the published spec sheet? While it is easy to assume that the product will operate according to spec, what variables should be considered, and is that a designer obligation or a customer responsibility? Or both?
Biomimicry has already found its way into the development of robots and new materials, with researchers studying animals and nature to come up with new innovations. Now thanks to researchers in Boston, biomimicry could even inform the future of electrical networks for next-generation displays.
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