Chuck I looked up BiStatix, and here's one thing I found: http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/gadgets/high-tech-gadgets/rfid2.htm You're right, the carbon ink was conductive and it was also printed on paper RFID tags. The (undated) article says the technology "didn't catch on with retailers," but doesn't say why. I wonder if it has to do with the low 96-bit storage capacity.
I sent this story to a friend of mine who had gotten excited one day when I was demonstrating a film you applied to laserjet printed paper and then ran through the printer again to fuse the film to the toner.
I had used a metallic film and he had hoped it was conductive so he could print circuits. Sadly the films I was using proved to be non-conductive, so maybe this tecnology will fulfill his dream.
Nice story, Cabe. I recall a technology -- I think it was from Motorola -- called BiStatix. It involved printed circuits for RFID applications. Seems to me they also used a conductive ink. I don't know what happened to that technology.
Ha! I'm with you on that, Rob. I have forgotten all about the inkjet printers and to be able to repurpose them in this way is really interesting. I would expect this would be more of a 3D printing type thing, so it's an interesting twist. Good story, Cabe.
This would be a great way to make your own flex circuits Although I like the idea of being able to print a circuit board on a printer, I think the assembly for this process may be a bit difficult.
For quick boards at home I tried a few of the hobby processes, including one where you would iron your artwork onto the board. Really the best process is still a photo process using pre-sensitized boards. All you have to do is print your artwork on a transparency sheet, expose the board with an ordinary fluorescent lamp for about 10 minutes, develop the board and then etch it. In an hour you can yield a single-sided, 10mil trace and space board that you can drill, solder and cut to whatever shape you need. You can make double-sided boards, but that's not as easy as you would hope. It's best to stick to single-sided boards with surface mount components so you don't need to drill.
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