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armorris
User Rank
Iron
Re: Enclosure
armorris   10/11/2012 4:34:22 PM
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Also, if you're not going to drive a low impedance load like headphones, you can delete transistors Q1 and Q2. I would leave R7 in place as the capacitors C1, C2, C3 and C4 could make U4 unstable.

armorris
User Rank
Iron
Re: Enclosure
armorris   10/11/2012 3:48:55 PM
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The volume control has an auxiliary output for an optional audio switch to turn a subwoofer or audio system on and off with the incoming signal. If you are not going to use that, you can delete R2, R3, R8, D1 and D2. Add a wire in place of the diodes (between U4 pins 1 and 2).

dgrant
User Rank
Iron
Re: Enclosure
dgrant   10/11/2012 3:06:35 PM
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Aha! Sorry I didn't see the extended text beneath the youtube video.

armorris
User Rank
Iron
Re: Enclosure
armorris   10/11/2012 3:04:15 PM
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No, It's not a Hammond enclosure. It's Radio Shack 270-1803. The link I sent you earlier has the part numbers and sources of parts not available at Allied. Since Allied sponsors this blog, they don't like people to mention the sources of parts they don't sell. That's why I sent you to my YouTube page.

dgrant
User Rank
Iron
Enclosure
dgrant   10/11/2012 2:39:52 PM
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Is that a Hammond enclosure?

dgrant
User Rank
Iron
Re: Additional info
dgrant   10/11/2012 2:32:20 PM
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Great, thanks for the heads-up. I will have to remove the 100 ohm resistors because I will be connecting to the line-level outputs of a TV.

armorris
User Rank
Iron
Re: Additional info
armorris   10/11/2012 2:21:35 PM
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It has to be an amplified speaker system connected to the TV (i.e. line-level or headphone-level signals). The volume control cannot control the speakers directly. If it is a line-level signal, delete the 100 ohm resistors at the input.

I built two remote volume controls and one of them is connected to a TV volume regulator, which has a line-level output. If the remote volume control is being connected to a headphone jack, the 100 ohm resistors are needed to allow the TV, or whatever, to sense the load and switch its internal speakers off. Most electronics nowadays use electronic means to detect a load on the headphone jack and switch off the built-in speakers. Gone are the days of having a mechanical switch in the headphone jack.

dgrant
User Rank
Iron
Re: Additional info
dgrant   10/11/2012 1:42:02 PM
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Thank you, yes, I have been thinking about asking you about programmed PICs. I am currently trying to source all the parts without paying too much shipping. If that is not too much hassle I may get a pickit2 and program it myself. If it's big hassle I may ask you for PICs to save some time. I'll let you know via email.

armorris
User Rank
Iron
Re: Additional info
armorris   10/10/2012 11:41:39 PM
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The resistance of the pots is 10K. See this link for further information.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyes_H9zIc8&feature=youtu.be

Let me know if you need me to send you programmed PICs. My email address is in the article.

 

dgrant
User Rank
Iron
Re: Additional info
dgrant   10/10/2012 6:02:07 PM
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This project is awesome, and it's just what I've been looking for so my parents can control the volume of the external speakers attached to their TV.

What was the total resistance of the DS1809 that you used? Thanks.

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