When my car battery died, my son came over to give me a jump. The jumper cables looked rather small, maybe 5/16 inch, including insulation. He got them from a website that sells close-outs and features only one item per day. Well, I hooked them up -- no spark. I found that to be a bit odd, so I left them on for a while, but the battery did not charge. I disconnected the cables and measured the voltage at the clips -- 12V. I figured there must be a high-resistance contact somewhere.
Later, after other cables got my car started, I did a post-mortem. I examined one of the wire crimps, and it looked like only a few strands were crimped and the rest must have been cut off by mistake. Not so! After cutting off the alligator clip, I noticed that the cable was almost all plastic, with just a tiny core of copper -- maybe #22 AWG. This is not good enough for lamp cord, but maybe speaker wire. Who makes jumper cables out of such thin wire? Monkeys!
This entry was submitted by Noor Singh Khalsa and edited by Rob Spiegel.
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That's crazy that there were plastic socket drive parts, and such small gauge jumper wires!
But, I have to defend the mentioned *oot site. I've bought many items from there over the years, and like anywhere else, you have to know what you're buying. I like my "leakfrog" water detectors that I got from that site, and I've even bought my first flat screen TV from there and haven't had any problems with the stuff.
Besides, where else can you buy a random "Bag Of Crap"? :)
I have, over the course of a 50 year career doing every job imaginable, consistently regretted purchasing cheap tools. I still have and use Snap-On mechanic's tools purchased 35 years ago. After melting a few sets of jumper cables, I made a 30' set of #1 tinned copper with tin-plated clamps. Cost was around $100 just in materials, but these cables have jump-started diesel trucks, bulldozers, boats, heated frozen fasteners using a carbon rod and are still as good as the day I made them. The 'jumper' cables that plug into a cigarette lighter socket will charge a dead battery given enough time (to charge a 100AH battery that is dead ideally takes 5 hours at 20 Amps, two and a half hours to get it to 50%) and that's assuming you don't blow the lighter fuse. They are a fire hazard though and can really shouldn't be sold as "jumper" cables. The cheapest "jumper" cable set you'll ever buy is a Triple A membership.
I've had relatives in the family (most now deceased!) that WOULD NOT spend the extra "dime" to buy high quality tools. They'd always buy the least expensive, cheapest-looking tool, and then RE-buy them when they failed after brief use. The irony of this is that in each case, the person was very successful in life, both financially & otherwise. So, who's to say or criticize??????
I have to agree re: contingencies. The story gets better: the emergency kit came with a "socket set", 1/4" drive. Small, cheapie sockets that are driven by a plastic-handled drive. I tried to use them to remove the 10mm nut on my battery post, and the plastic handle broke away from the metal shaft on the first try. BTW, I'm not going to name the website where he bought it, but it rhymes with POOT.
For industrial control applications, or even a simple assembly line, that machine can go almost 24/7 without a break. But what happens when the task is a little more complex? That’s where the “smart” machine would come in. The smart machine is one that has some simple (or complex in some cases) processing capability to be able to adapt to changing conditions. Such machines are suited for a host of applications, including automotive, aerospace, defense, medical, computers and electronics, telecommunications, consumer goods, and so on. This discussion will examine what’s possible with smart machines, and what tradeoffs need to be made to implement such a solution.